Pacific Dawn Cruise to New Caledonia

Saturday, February 2, 2008

Disembarkation

Photos now - the text will come soon!

NEWS FLASH - I have finally almost figured out how to link the caption to the large image.
 

You can now click on some of the captions to open the full size picture!






Sunrise

Thursday, January 24, 2008

Day 5 & 6 (At Sea)

These next two days involve a number of personal challenges

a) discover all the parts of the ship not previously seen
b) get involved in enough of the ship's activities necessary to avoid any later feelings of regret that we didn't try hard enough
c) maintain a consistently high standard of relaxation, but
d) not get bored

So first the weather (Helen feels that you need to know all about the sea and weather conditions) - the easterly trade winds and corresponding swell returned as soon as we got into clear ocean water away from the influence of the islands. For those with sensitive stomachs (actually sensitive balance systems of the inner ear), the change to a following swell was a bit different but the conditions on day 5 were pretty good. Day 6 has been a completely different picture with a bit of weather from the south west (including rainy squalls) making the ride a lot more bumpy. For me the only time you really noticed the ship moving about was walking up the narrow corridors to the cabin. The easiest time (when I noticed the movement the least) was during dinner (too busy talking) and in bed.


Day 5


At dinner last night our dinner companions included distant relatives of Helen's side of the family from the Mid North Coast (NSW). Much discussion ensured but as most of Helen's Kesby family history knowledge has been verbal, the conversation was a little one sided. Nevertheless they all knew Helen's famous (locally) Uncle Grahame Kesby.

We got a lovely surprise on our return from the day on Isle of Pines yesterday. We received an invitation from the Captain to tour the Bridge at 10.30am today. This was really something special as the post 9/11 security crackdown makes it impossible for this privilege to be extended to the majority of the passengers on board. So discretion about the the invitation and the actual tour was sought and respected - to find out how we got the invitation you'll need to ask me in person. So at 10.30 a small group of passengers assembled outside the corridor to the bridge and we were checked off and taken into this special place. The 2nd officer talked us through some of the equipment and the daily operational / management issues of running a 70,000 tonne 245m long, 60m tall (from the keel) 798 room floating hotel.


Captain Fabio Amitrano & 2nd Officer Vladimir Velkov at the Bridge Telegraph


The whole visit was enormously interesting however the highlight for me was the use of digital charts to plot and monitor the ship's course. Despite having a mind-blowing array of digital inputs into the ships black box recorders (essential the modern day equivalent of the ships log), in a somewhat quaint / traditional way, the P&O policy is to still plot the ship's course on a paper chart.


Helen at the Chart Table (they're real chart plotting instruments!)



2nd Officer Velkov at the Starboard Aux. Bridge Telegraph



Pacific Dawn Steering Console

Our next highlight for the day was a matinee performance by hypnotist Greg Hudson (a regular on P&O Cruises) - very amusing and interesting to watch the difference responses state of relaxation vs. ability to respond to the power of suggestion.

Then a second opportunity to get into our formal gear for a Captains Cocktail Party (invitation only for repeat P&O passengers). The Cruise Director and Captain hand out prizes to the passengers with three highest number of repeat voyages. On this occasion the statistics were 27, 52 and 96 cruises respectively! Unfortunately I don't think that the token "rewards" didn't quite match the amazing level of customer loyalty.


Captains Party - drinks all round!

The big production show tonight featured both the onboard singer/dancing troupe, the showband plus the two guest performers for this cruise - Comedian Matt Elsbury and Vocalist Liz Layton. Matt, a younger standup comic who's been touring with Carl Barron as well as being a veteran of eight Melbourne International Comedy Festivals was very funny. Liz is a seasoned performer who admitted to the audience that she started in the entertainment industry with Bullen's Circus.

Then as if we haven't had enough highlights for one day, our dinner companions tonight (Hayley Lee and Cait) were all from Newcastle!


Dinner companions from Newcastle


Day 6

P&O generally conducts a number of "behind the scenes" tours of the ship whilst at sea. The kitchen tour is usually very popular (though I couldn't see why looking at wall to wall stainless steel would be that interesting).

On our last day at sea we joined the "Meet the Cast and Backstage Tour". We meet the P&O performers - singers, dancers, members of the showband and the production (technical) manager, to listen to their individual stories and then answer questions from the passengers.

Those who were interested were then invited to a backstage tour. The backstage area consisted of a narrow space for the performers to change and apply makeup and a converor system (like you might see at a dry cleaners) that lifted all the costumes (on hangers) up to a second level above the change area for storage between shows. What was particularly awesome was the way the whole backstage operation was so compact (sorry - no pics).

Consistent with my personal challenges (above) today was "the day" to take some pics of the inside of the ship. Arguably the two most impressive spaces on Pacific Dawn are the Grand Plaza (the central atrium) and the Showlounge.


Grand Plaza

Although you can't see them, Grand Plaza begins on Plaza Deck with the Purser's and Tours Desks and a Patisserie. From the Plaza level the staircases lead first to Emerald Deck (funny I can't remember referring to that name the whole time we've been on board) and then up again to Promenade. These next 2 levels are home to a variety of boutiques plus the photo / video shop. The photo shop is almost entirely a display of all the photos taken of passengers by the ship's photographers during the cruise. A video of the entire week is also progressively compiled and segments are shown on several large screens in the shop 24hrs. The DVD is also available for sale (of course).

During the time I was taking pics of the Grand Plaza, the Fine Arts Department was conducting one of it's numerous auctions on Plaza Deck. These auctions are a wonderful exhibition of marketing and salesmanship and it is easy to see why they are very popular both for the company and for the passengers with some disposable income. I suspect that some passengers come on these holiday cruises primarily for the art sales.

The action in the Showlounge was pretty full-on today with the "Meet the Cast and Backstage Tour", the finals of the Wooden Horse Racing (sort of like Backgammon on a very short race track), the auction of the Cruise Chart, the final Bingo game with a $6,000 plus jackpot.


Showlounge

The highlight of the final night's evening entertainment is the "Pop Star" Grand Final (a P&O Cruise version of Australian Idol) followed by the Passenger Talent Show. Whilst the "Pop Star" Grand Final was semi serious with the passengers competing having been through semi finals earlier in the week, the Talent Show was just great fun with the volunteers simply "having a go". The crowd went wild with support for each act and jeered the "celebrity" judges (the Band Leader, Comedian and Vocalist) when they deliverd any negative feedback.

So that's almost it! Tomorrow is Disembarkation Day. A very early morning to watch as we come through the Heads into Sydney Harbour coming up.


Final Sunset

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Tuesday, January 22, 2008

Day 4 (Isle of Pines)

Too tired to get up to watch our arrival at Isle of Pines - besides which the navigator lost all credibility taking all night to travel 50km. Perhaps the overnight port charges cost much more than fuel for the slow but short trip south.

This regular cruise line stopover island was (for us) three beaches each facing a different direction within a few hundred metres of the landing jetty. The most popular of the three beaches is the picture postcard tropical island bay – a perfect crescent shape, coconut palms and she-oaks fringing the back of the beach, crystal clear water and waves gently breaking onto the sand.

Now if all that paradise isn’t enough, the coral and tropical fish appears within 20m of the shore around a rocky headland. I didn’t take the camera ashore today (too much sand) so you’ll just have to believe me for the moment. I’ll find some suitable pics once we’re back home.


Isle of Pines from the ship




Departing for Home

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Monday, January 21, 2008

Day 3 (Noumea)

Awoke to a perfect Pacific Island morning – blue sky, bright sunshine, turquoise sea and a gentle breeze. Pacific Dawn glided majestically into the harbour and we were alongside the Cruise Ship Terminal before 7.30am. We must have been a little excited about our first day ashore as we were up dressed and finished breakfast before we’d entered the harbour.

 

Cruise Ship Terminal & Downtown Noumea

A very small group of Polynesian musicians arrived on the wharf and performed to welcome us to the country. Later in the afternoon this same group (in much greater numbers) returned to farewell us. This time they came with dancers, grass skirts and a complete percussion section (Angus and Tristan would have been most impressed). Against the backdrop of the enormous hull of our ship they still somehow managed to hold their own as they entertained the passengers on the wharf arriving from excursions and shopping and the crowd gathering on Promenade Deck (the one immediately beneath the lifeboats).

 

Pacific Dawn berthed in Noumea

Noumea is a curious blend of Polynesia and France. The tropical vegetation, Polynesians and their colourful and casual dress combined with French street names, police sirens straight out of the Pink Panther movies and a distinct aloofness by the locals. Ironically, the only greeting we received was not in French but instead a couple of very young Polynesian kids practicing their English.

Slightly disappointing was the distinct absence of genuine French patisseries. Not that we needed any more food!

Although we’d read that everything is Noumea is expensive, the city centre appeared to us to be far from affluent and the shops were mostly selling trashy or cheap goods. One exception was a small boutique selling exquisite wedding gowns – what a contrast!

Our wandering took us to the convict built Catholic Cathedral on the hill. Built in the late 1800’s it’s condition is a little dilapidated but nevertheless well used. The bare concrete floor in the body of the church was remarkable and unexpected.



Saint Joseph’s Cathedral

After lunch we joined a tour to the Tjibaou Cultural Centre. It is particularly difficult to describe in a few words what the Tjibaou Cultural Centre is or represents. The tour booklet describes it as “a harmonious alliance of traditional and modern indigenous New Caledonian (Kanak) architecture exhibiting world standard exhibits and collections of both Kanak and Pacific cultures.”

The Cultural Centre is administered by the Agency for the Development of Kanak Culture (A.D.C.K.). Their mission is to -
  • To promote and preserve the Kanak archaeological, anthropological and linguistic heritage;
  • To encourage contemporary modes of expression within the Kanak culture, particularly in the fields of crafts, audiovisual presentations and artistic creativity;
  • To promote cultural exchanges, particularly within the South Pacific region; and
  • To identify and carry out research programmes.
Apart from the impressive Renzo Piano (world famous architect) designed buildings (financed by the French Government), the centre also features three imposing traditional Melanesian huts. The centre also highlights the Kanak migration throughout the Pacific Region originating in Taiwan over thousands of years.


Tjibaou Cultural Centre

The Center itself is similar to that of the villages in which the Kanak tribes live; a series of huts (or case in French) which distinguish the different functions and hierarchies of the tribes (les tribus) and a central alley along which the huts are dispersed. More specifically, the Cultural Center is composed of three ‘villages’ made up of ten ‘Great Houses’ of varying sizes and functions (exhibition spaces, multimedia library, cafeteria, conference and lecture rooms). The ‘Great Houses’ are linked by a long, gently curving enclosed walkway, reminiscent of the ceremonial alley of the traditional Kanak village.




Melanesian Chief’s Hut


 

Tjibaou Cultural Centre

Back in the city but before boarding there’s time to explore a bit of the waterfront - in particular the Ile De Re. On close inspection it’s obvious this is a French cable laying vessel in between projects. She’s quite small next to Pacific Dawn.




Cable Laying Vessel - Ile De Re


 

Pacific Dawn and Ile De Re

Out as sea and heading south to the Isle of Pines there was just time left to attempt a sunset pic to mark the end of an interesting and enjoyable day in New Caledonia.


 

French Polynesian Sunset
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Sunday, January 20, 2008

Day 2 (At Sea)

Really starting to get into the groove now – lots of taking in the holiday atmosphere.



Musical Deckchairs

Nothing is being taken too seriously including a wine tasting session @ 11am. Plenty of time to lean on the rail and watch time passing “bye”


Time Passing

Sunday turns out to be a delightful day with a very pleasant easterly trade wind. The gentle swell is just big enough to remind us that we’re still at sea. The waves breaking sound like we’re at the beach.


Swell breaks against the ship’s hull

Glance at the chart on our way to lunch. The predicted cyclone path has shifted towards the west but still a long way to the south east of New Caledonia.



Cyclone Tracking

I finally get an internet connection today after a false start on Saturday. The satellite dishes above the Dome remind me of Pine Gap – there’s another one on the stern as well.


The Dish(es)

Tomorrow we visit Noumea and step ashore
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Saturday, January 19, 2008

Day 1 (At Sea)

Our first full day at sea. The waves and swell was up a little overnight but has eased off today. The Pacific Dawn handles the seas magnificently and most of the time today we hardy notice the movement. When the sea is causing the ship to pitch and roll a little, perhaps our greatest challenge has been to walk down the corridors in a straight line.

Which brings me to my significant discovery for today - the distances we need to walk to get from one place to another are enormous! I’ve come to the sudden realisation today that the number of stairs and the trek from one end of the ship to the other all points to this holiday (selected by Helen) as being designed as a walking holiday (even more than a than camping and bushwalking in a National Park!) I’d tell you how long the ship is but if you don’t believe me I’m sure you’ll go to the Pacific Dawn http://www.pacificdawn.com.au/html/ site and check it out.


Caribe Deck Corridor – runs the entire length of the ship

So as if to confirm my suspicions, we were out of bed and up to the walking/ running circuit on Deck 14 to go walking before breakfast. With the prevailing weather this turns out to be more challenging than it sounds. On the forward facing side of the circuit the 75 km / hr breeze (30km trade wind and 35km/hr ship speed) makes walking forward quite a challenge. Then once you round the corner to head towards the stern the wind nearly lifts you off your feet towards the stern!


Walking Track – much later in the day

The rest of the day was made up with eating, relaxing in the bars enjoying performances of piano (2 pianos in separate areas of the ship) plus an Australian guitar / keyboard Duo called Inertia and discovering areas of the ship we hadn’t found on the first night. Before dinner there was a comedy routine by a new Australian stand-up comedian and after dinner we headed up to the Dome for a bit of dancing and watching the teens and many others enjoy the impromptu dance lesson and several competitions interspaced with more dancing.

It’s felt like we’ve done very little but we finally collapsed at around 1am.


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Friday, January 18, 2008

Embarkation

Boarded after the usual Customs and Immigration checkpoints and some more forms at the Tax Rebate Desk. Then onto the wharf and have our pic taken by the ships photographer then suddenly we’re on board!

Our cabin is more that we could have imagined with a huge porthole – Helen is very pleased.


A Room with a View



Feeling at home already

There’s time to explore a bit of the ship before Emergency Drill. The view of Darling Harbour from the front windows in the Dome is nothing worth getting excited about. Better start reading all about the activities for the rest of the day.


Pacific Daily – when is the first Art Auction???

At 4:20 we slip away from the wharf in steady rain - passengers (including us) huddle out of the wind and rain on around the pool on Lido Deck to the sounds of "Love Shack". The weather is so lousy that the cloud has enveloped the tops of Centrepoint Tower and the other tall skyscrapers in the city.

 
View from Caribe Deck towards Goat Island and the Sydney Ports Auth Tower



A few brave passengers out in the rain

Get a big wave from the bridge climb groups as the ship passes Luna Park. At least we were have some cover compared to these guys. Dropped off the pilot as the ship rounds the last channel mark and heads into the Pacific Ocean. We’re finally at sea about an hour after pulling away from Wharf 8.


Goodbye Sydney

We settle into some deck chairs to watch the coastline disappear amongst the showers and cloud until the cool breeze chased us inside. So much for a summer holiday!

Discover the Piano Bar on Plaza Deck and celebrate our escape with a pre-dinner glass of champagne - feeling very decadent. Wondered what the "poor" people were doing back home (NOT) ;-)

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Welcome to Sydney

The planned trip out to Bradley's Head was a sensational experience but was almost a complete disaster. As expected, the ship's Webcam was temporarily switched off when the shipgets within range of terrestrial wireless internet services.

I got up at 4:30am so it was impossible to how close the ship was to the coast. I arrived at the locked gate to the headland just before first light to be suprised and delighted by Pacific Dawn sliding almost silently through the water just off the headland. Less than 2 minutes later I would have missed it!

If you've never been there, Bradley's Head is a narrow headland protruding from the north shore of Sydney Harbour just south of Mosman. It's close to the Sydney - Hobart yacht race starting line and just down Military Road in Mosman. The nearest neighbour is Taronga Zoo with stunning views of the city, the Opera House and the Harbour Bridge.



Bradley's Head (centre of photo)

It's location for watching and photographing all the the shipping and boating activity of our beautiful and spectacular harbour is unparalleled.

After running the last 100m (after realising that Pacific Dawn had almost rounded the headland), I watched this beautiful white ship from the HMAS Sydney foremast (monument) "appear" around the point and get so close I almost could have called out to the passengers up on the Lido Deck making the most of the last few minutes of their "Summer Sessions" cruise.

The plan was to take some photos with the new camera. With low light, no tripod, heaps of wind and a ship moving away quite quickly (sounds like I'm inventing lots of excuses) a great photo was pretty much impossible. Might have to come back and try again next summer.


Pacific Dawn approaching Fort Denison

We arrived at the passenger terminal around 10am and sailed (ha ha) through checkin as the crowds don't arrive until later. Time for drafting and uploading this blog before boarding at 12:30.


Arriving in style - not our Limo :-(



Pacific Dawn waiting for us to board


More latter.
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Wednesday, January 16, 2008

The Anticipation/Preparation

Less than 48 hours to go until sailaway!

The bags are packed (almost) and every concievable issue and contingency has been gone through. 

Shopping for extra bits and pieces has been completed (I hope) .

Helen says she's excited about going - I don't think the excitement will really set in until we've pulled away from the wharf and start steaming down the harbour.

The end of this week is a pretty amazing time for passenger cruise liners Sydney Harbour. There are 2 ships arriving and leaving on Friday - Pacific Dawn from Darling Harbour Wharf 8 at 4pm (that's us) and Superstar Gemini (berthed at the Overseas Passenger Terminal until 18:30 before heading off to Queensland.



We should see her as we pass Circular Quay on the way to the heads.

That makes way for 3 more cruise ships arriving on Saturday. The Sun Princess will be at Darling Harbour Wharf 8, the Statendam at Harbour Wharf Wharf 3 and Mercury at the OPT.



Sun Princess arriving in Darling Harbour



Statendam - Hilo Harbor, Big Island, Hawaii


Mercury, Sitka Alaska

This might sound a bit crazy but I'm planning to get up early (around 5am) on Friday morning, come into town and watch Pacific Dawn come through the Heads and round Bradley's Head then steam up towards the Fort Denison and the Sydney Harbour Bridge. (I realise that a modern diesel engine ship can't actually steam anywhere but it just sounds right).  Helen has opted not to come with me (at this stage anyway). Unfortunately the forecast is for showers increasing so there might not be any photos worth uploading.

If you're interested in taking a look at Pacific Dawn leaving the harbour there's a great web cam in Kirribilli looking towards Bradley's Head that will give you a birds eye view (subject to the weather). Here's a daytime shot (from today). Click here to go to Live WebCam. There's even a hi resolution option.



Sydney Harbour Webcam

For those interested - there's quite a lot of information about the cruise on the P&O Web Site. The official cruise number is W803N. We're away for 7 nights and returning on Friday 25th. 


That's about it for now. Come back and check out this Blog from time to time. The plan is to upload a short desciption of our holiday everyday (subject to the quality of the connection to the satelite).


By all means please feel free to post a comment.

Roger & Helen.