Cruise Ship Terminal & Downtown Noumea
A very small group of Polynesian musicians arrived on the wharf and performed to welcome us to the country. Later in the afternoon this same group (in much greater numbers) returned to farewell us. This time they came with dancers, grass skirts and a complete percussion section (Angus and Tristan would have been most impressed). Against the backdrop of the enormous hull of our ship they still somehow managed to hold their own as they entertained the passengers on the wharf arriving from excursions and shopping and the crowd gathering on Promenade Deck (the one immediately beneath the lifeboats).
Pacific Dawn berthed in Noumea
Noumea is a curious blend of Polynesia and France. The tropical vegetation, Polynesians and their colourful and casual dress combined with French street names, police sirens straight out of the Pink Panther movies and a distinct aloofness by the locals. Ironically, the only greeting we received was not in French but instead a couple of very young Polynesian kids practicing their English.
Slightly disappointing was the distinct absence of genuine French patisseries. Not that we needed any more food!
Although we’d read that everything is Noumea is expensive, the city centre appeared to us to be far from affluent and the shops were mostly selling trashy or cheap goods. One exception was a small boutique selling exquisite wedding gowns – what a contrast!
Our wandering took us to the convict built Catholic Cathedral on the hill. Built in the late 1800’s it’s condition is a little dilapidated but nevertheless well used. The bare concrete floor in the body of the church was remarkable and unexpected.
Saint Joseph’s Cathedral
After lunch we joined a tour to the Tjibaou Cultural Centre. It is particularly difficult to describe in a few words what the Tjibaou Cultural Centre is or represents. The tour booklet describes it as “a harmonious alliance of traditional and modern indigenous New Caledonian (Kanak) architecture exhibiting world standard exhibits and collections of both Kanak and Pacific cultures.”
The Cultural Centre is administered by the Agency for the Development of Kanak Culture (A.D.C.K.). Their mission is to -
- To promote and preserve the Kanak archaeological, anthropological and linguistic heritage;
- To encourage contemporary modes of expression within the Kanak culture, particularly in the fields of crafts, audiovisual presentations and artistic creativity;
- To promote cultural exchanges, particularly within the South Pacific region; and
- To identify and carry out research programmes.
Tjibaou Cultural Centre
The Center itself is similar to that of the villages in which the Kanak tribes live; a series of huts (or case in French) which distinguish the different functions and hierarchies of the tribes (les tribus) and a central alley along which the huts are dispersed. More specifically, the Cultural Center is composed of three ‘villages’ made up of ten ‘Great Houses’ of varying sizes and functions (exhibition spaces, multimedia library, cafeteria, conference and lecture rooms). The ‘Great Houses’ are linked by a long, gently curving enclosed walkway, reminiscent of the ceremonial alley of the traditional Kanak village.
Melanesian Chief’s Hut
Tjibaou Cultural Centre
Back in the city but before boarding there’s time to explore a bit of the waterfront - in particular the Ile De Re. On close inspection it’s obvious this is a French cable laying vessel in between projects. She’s quite small next to Pacific Dawn.
Cable Laying Vessel - Ile De Re
Pacific Dawn and Ile De Re
Out as sea and heading south to the Isle of Pines there was just time left to attempt a sunset pic to mark the end of an interesting and enjoyable day in New Caledonia.
French Polynesian Sunset
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